Aska Shawlette

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Recently I bought a couple balls of Lion Brand's Mandala and it's one of those yarns that you buy and wonder "what can I make with just one ball/cake/skein?" 

So among my very cluttered desk I saw a still-packaged Tunisian (or afghan) hook that I bought on a whim and decided I should try it out.

 

I have worked tunisian crochet before but I hadn't went beyond TSS (Tunisian Simple Stitch) so I figured I could work on some stitch variations for practice to create a design simple enough for beginners. 

What I like about Tunisian crochet are all the lovely textures you can achieve just by inserting your hook in different ways. 

 

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Before the pattern I'm going to break down all the different stitches I used and show you how to work them.  

Each row in Tunisian crochet has two parts:

Forward pass: this is when you're gathering all the loops on your hook. 

Return Pass: this is when you're working all the loops off your hook. 

TSS (Tunisian Simple Stitch)  

To work TSS  make any number of chains.

Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop, (insert hook in next chain, yo and pull up a lp) across.  

After you've worked into each ch it should look like this:  

 

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For your return pass:  ch 1 (yarn over, pull through two loops on hook. 

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For your next forward pass you will be inserting your hook in the vertical loops and pulling up a loop. 

Unlike regular crochet the first loop on your hook counts as a stitch and you do not work into the first vertical loop that is right below it. 

 

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After that your return pass is the same as before: ch 1, (yo, pull through 2 loops) across.  

 

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   After a few rows this is what it looks like.

 

  

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TKS (tunisian knit stitch)  

To work TKS instead of inserting the hook in the vertical loop, you insert the hook in between the front and back vertical loops all the way through,  yarn over and pull up a loop.

 

 

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The return pass is the same as TSS; ch 1, (yo, pull through 2 loops) across.  

 

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TPS (tunisian purl stitch)   

For the foward pass you work exactly the same as TSS except you bring your yarn in front of your work. 

 

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Its a little awkward at first, but once you get into a rhythm it gets easier. 

 

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Return pass is the same. Ch 1, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 

 

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Tunisian X (or cross) Stitch 

For the foward pass: work in the vertical loops same as TSS, skipping the first one, yo pull up a loop. 

 

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Then insert hook in the skipped vertical loop, yo pull up a loop.

 

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Continue in the same manner all the way across, skip one loop, insert hook in next loop, pull up a loop, insert hook in skipped loop, yo, pull up a loop.

The return pass is the same. Ch 1, (yo, pull through 2 loops) across.  

This is what it should look like. 

 

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Pattern 

The base for the pattern is the same throughout with variations of the stitches shown above. 

If you like one stitch better than the other feel free to change the stitches however you like just be sure to make the same increases and decreases as stated in Rows 2&3. 

The return pass is the same for each row. 

Before you start, take note that since you will be yarning over and making an increase stitch at the beginning of each row, your first stitch that you will be working into may try to hide. Your increases will be made before that stitch.

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I used one cake of Lion Brand Yarn's Mandala which is a lightweight (3) yarn and a Size K-6.5 and I -5.25 tunisian hook.

The smaller hook is for the last row and edging but not totally necessary. 

No gauge is needed and if substituting yarn be sure to use a larger than stated on the yarn label since Tunisian crochet creates a denser fabric than regular crochet. 

1 Cake of Mandala has 590 yards. 

 

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To Start:  

Ch 3  

Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull up a lp.   

Return pass: (same here and throughout) ch 1, (yo, pull through 2 lps) across. 

Row 2:  Yo, insert hook before first st, yo, pull up a lp, TSS across. 

Return

Row 3: Repeat row 2 leaving last stitch unworked. *note that the last stitch is the ch 1 made on each return pass

Rows 4-24: Repeat rows 2-3 in TSS

Rows 25-28: Rep 2-3 in TKS

Rows 29-32: Rep 2-3 in TSS

Rows 33-35: Rep 2-3 in TPS

Rows 36-43: Rep 2-3 in TSS

Rows 44-45: Rep 2-3 in TKS

Row 46: Rep in TSS

Rows 47-48: Rep in TKS

Rows 49-58: Rep in TSS

Row 59: Rep alternating each stitch from TSS  TPS

Row 60: Rep alternating each stitch from TPS to TSS

Row 61-62: Rep rows 59-60

Row 63-66: Rep in TSS

Row 67-68: Rep in Tunisian Cross or X Stitch

Row 69: Rep in TSS

Row 70: Rep in TKS

Row 71: Rep in TPS

Row 72-73: Rep 70-71

Rows 74-83: Rep in TSS

Rows 84-89: Rep rows 59-60

Rows 90-94: Rep in TSS

Rows 95-98: Rep in TKS

Continue in TSS for 8 more rows (or more if you think you have enough yarn)  

Last row and border: Change to smaller hook and sl stitch in each vertical loop across, turn to work along edge and sl st evenly across.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block as needed. 

Sample shown measures 65"in length and is 18" at the widest part.  

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Let me know what y'all think!

God Bless and Happy Hooking!  

Stripey Scarf

I got really excited when I found Red Heart's Super Saver Stripes and grabbed two skeins but wasn't quite sure what to do them. Self-striping yarns are great but they do tend to have a pretty short striping sequence (depending on the brand) so it can be hard to use them for larger projects. This scarf is a beginner friendly project and the fun part is that the border is built right into the pattern! Please comment and let me know what you think!

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Yarn- 2 skeins Red Heart Super Saver Stripes in Favorite Stripe or about 300-350 yards worsted weight yarn

Size J Hook

Scarf measures 9” at widest point and is 90” in length

Notes

Gauge is not needed

Scarf length can be adjusted if desired, just stop your increases and begin decreasing when you reach half the length you want. **if you plan to customize the size be sure to read the pattern through before starting**

The only stitches used are Half-Double Crochet, Hdc2tog (half-double crochet 2 together) and chain.

Pattern

Row 1: Ch 9, hdc in 7th chain from hook and next 2 ch. Turn

Rows 2-6: Ch 6, hdc in each of next 3 hdc. Turn

Row 7: Ch 6, hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in last hdc. Turn

Rows 8-13: Ch 6, hdc in each hdc across. Turn

Row 14: Ch 6, 2 hdc in 1st hdc, hdc in each hdc across to last hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. Turn

Rows 15-20: Rep Row 8

Rows 21-90: Rep rows 14-20

Row 91(decrease row): Ch 6, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc across to last 2 hdc, hdc2tog. Turn

Rows 92-97: Rep row 8.

Rep rows 91-97 until 3 stitches remain.

Rep rows 8-13

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block if needed.

 

If you would like a pdf it is available here  for a small fee.

Meridia Hat- Free Pattern Friday!

Happy Friday ya'll!

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This hat is knitted using the classic Old Shale stitch pattern in one piece with one seam and stitch gathering at the top.  

What you need: Size 7 4.5mm knitting needles

                           One ball of Light (3) Yarn. (I used Baby Bee Sweet Delight Prints)

                           Tapestry or Yarn Needle

Sizes: Toddler/Child/Adult

          If a shorter hat is desired change your Cast On to 47 for Child and Adult Sizes.

Gauge: 24 sts x 29 rows=4"  in stockinette st

            1 pattern rep= approx 3.5" 

Pattern: CO 47 (65, 65)

Row 1: K across

Row 2: P across

Row 3: K 11, [ K2tog 3 times, (yo, K1) 5 times, K2tog 3 times, K1] across.

Row 4: K across to last 10 sts, P 10

Rep Rows 1-4 until piece measures 18 (19, 20)" in length** 

Bind off and Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

**Hat pictured actually only measures 18" around but it does fit an adult woman so you can choose the circumference for your own personal preference. 

On the wrong side seam Bind off and Cast on edges together. Then weave tail through row edges and pull taut to gather. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

 

 

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If you have any questions feel free to comment below and if you aren't a knitter then stay tuned for the crochet version!

Boxy Tee- Free Pattern!

Well this is probably my second ever knitted garment and while I'm trying to up my game and work on my knitting skills I figured I can offer you guys a Not so perfect but completely adjustable and simple pattern.

As you can see even though I WET-BLOCKED the pieces they still curled up at the edges, which I don't mind so much at the top but the bottom is driving me insane. I may have to give it another try or find a different blocking method.

 

You can find this yarn Here

You can find this yarn Here

* Not an affiliate link*

(I just found this at my local Wal-mart and the colors knit up quite nicely in my opinion)

There is no shaping to worry about, this is just T-shaped garment.

Sizes Small (Medium, Large)

Bernat Softee Baby Colors 2 (2, 3) Balls in Blue Rainbow (3 lightweight yarn, approximately 600-800 yds)

Size 8 Needles

Gauge

17 sts= 4” in stockinette st

Stitches

Stockinette st= K 1 row, P next row

K= Knit

P=Purl

YO= Yarn Over

K2Tog= Knit 2 Together

BO= Bind off

Notes

Top is meant to be loose fitting

Gauge rows are not needed as the pattern is made measuring as you work.

Sleeves are 3” in length for each size so adjust as wanted being sure that after you bind off the sleeves the remaining stitches are a multiple of 6

The bottom lace part is optional and could be worked throughout entire top if desired.

 

Pattern (make 2)

CO 90 (102, 114) 

Row 1: K across

Row 2: P across

Continue in Stockinette St until piece measures 7 (7.5, 8) “ in lengthending on a P row

Next row: BO 12 (knit wise), K across

Next Row: BO 12 (purl wise), P across.

Continue in Stockinette st until piece measures 12-14” in length or until you would like to start the lace pattern.

Lace Pattern

Row 1: K 3, yo, K2tog, (K5, yo, K2tog) across ending with K 3

Row 2: P

Row 3: K 4, yo, K2 tog, (K5, yo, K2tog) across ending with K2

Row 4: P

Row 5: (K5, yo, K2tog) across ending with K1

Row 6: P

Continue in Lace pattern Until Piece Measures approximately 24” or to desired length

Bind off Knit wise.

Block pieces.

Holding the two pieces together with the purl side facing you. Seam sides and underarms

Seam top shoulders leaving a 10-12” neck opening

 

Comments are always welcome!

New Free Pattern Soon

A few weeks ago I decided that I really wanted to knit a sweater, BUT living in Texas at this time of year (talking over 100° F y'all) just the thought of a sweater makes me cringe. So I decided a simple, light, roomy top would be better. 

So I dragged out this baby yarn and prayed  3 balls would be enough. 

There is 310 yards in each one

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 I decided I would stick with a simple T-shaped schematic so I didnt have to fiddle around with shaping since I've only knitted one garment in my life. 

 

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Not perfect at all ( you can see my oopsie at the top left) I started with stockinette stitch and obviously got distracted at some point  and didnt notice till it was too late. 😞 oh well

At some point i got bored with stockinette so i decided to add some lace to it and after staring at one of my knitting stitch books I decided just to make up my own that would be easy to remember. I love that just making yarn overs with decreases next to them you can create a pretty little lace design. 

Much to my surprise I didn't even use a whole ball of yarn for the first piece, so yay knitting! 

 

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I'm just starting up the second piece and am trying to decide whether or not to add some element of crochet to it. Thinking maybe some motifs or simple chains to join the sides and top shoulders together. If i just sew it together it will be a simple boatneck tee. 

Anyway, once I get my second piece finished and blocked I'll be posting the instructions on here for y'all including size changes and possible customizations. 

What's your go-to summer knit? Let me know in the comments below! 

Lazy Summer

Boy has this been a lazy summer so far! I have two kids home from school and they are definitely a distraction. (Don't get me wrong, its a good distraction!) 

But this is what I have been up to! 

I have a few designs I need to add to my shop here, which I will do soon.  

 

Princess Dress

Princess Dress

This dress was made from Wollfamos gradient yarn , which was a joy to work with. Look at those colors!

I finally finished my Certified Instructors Program for crochet and am waiting for the certificate. This is most of the reason why I haven't been posting much since it is time consuming.  

 Of course, I've been trying to find ways to entertain these little stinkers! 

 

It wont turn right side up 😕 

It wont turn right side up 😕 

What I'm up to now?  

Putting projects in timeout and contemplating frogging them because it didn't reach my expectations. (Maybe this Texas heat is making me grumpy) I'm sure I'll change my mind and come back to finish it, I just needed a break. Btw it was almost finished 😳

 

I'm mad at this.  

I'm mad at this.  

Trying to keep the kiddos cool I seriously wanted to jump in there, but it would have been weird to be the only adult.  I felt like I was melting out there.

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Why are you sideways?? 

Right now I am working on knitting a new design I plan to offer for FREE! I spent a lot of time today looking up ways to knit faster and found out that the flicking technique works well for me. Woohoo! 

 

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I told myself before school was out for summer I was going to take it easy since I was going to be  juggling bored kids, my husband's crazy work schedule ( some days i have to cook supper around 2 in the afternoon, its that crazy) and all the things I actually want to get accomplished.  

So I've put off submitting designs and decided to just do my own thing until I can get some peace and quiet. 

 

How's your summer so far??

 

New Design in I Like Crochet magazine!

Hi Guys!

I just want to share with y'all my newest design Island Time Dress which is available in I Like Crochet magazine's June 2017 issue.

 

The slow pace of a tropical getaway heals the soul almost as much as the comfortable, flowy dress you will be wearing as you stroll along the beach. This versatile dress is made by starting at the high-waist and working down to the skirt, then crocheting in the opposite side of the foundation chain, working upwards for the bodice. This pattern could be easily converted into a two-piece outfit by simply working the bodice separately; it would look particularly lovely in two complementary colors

The slow pace of a tropical getaway heals the soul almost as much as the comfortable, flowy dress you will be wearing as you stroll along the beach. This versatile dress is made by starting at the high-waist and working down to the skirt, then crocheting in the opposite side of the foundation chain, working upwards for the bodice. This pattern could be easily converted into a two-piece outfit by simply working the bodice separately; it would look particularly lovely in two complementary colors

You can find more detailed pictures in the following link ttp://www.ilikecrochet.com/skirts/island-time-dress/?mqsc=ILCDJ2017

Let me know what you think!

 

Spring Break Giveaway!

Who doesn't love a free pattern?!

Every day for the next 7 days I will be giving away a free skirt pattern! All you have to do is hop on over to my Facebook page and I will be offering a coupon code to use in my Ravelry shop for a different skirt every day.

 

 

Pop Super Scarf

I hadn't been able to find any self-striping yarn cakes until I came across Bernat's Pop Yarn and was wondering what I could do with just one skein. Each cake has 280 yards, and I wanted to see how far I could make this yardage stretch.  I broke out my large knitting needles and came up with this!

 

So how far did the yarn stretch? WIth the scarf over my neck it almost touches the floor! I combined yarn overs and dropped stitches to make a color-blocked super scarf.

I used size 17/12.5mm knitting needles and boy is there a reason why yarns have suggestions because after blocking the dropped stitches got a little wonky.

 

If you don't like the idea of using large needles, recommended ones will still yield a lovely result.

 

Pattern:

CO 23

Row 1: K6, P6, K6, P5

Row 2: K5, P6, K6, P6

Row 3-5: Rep rows 1-2 then rep row 1

Row 6: (K, yo twice) across

Row 7: K across dropping all yarn overs

Row 8: P5, K6, P6, K6

Row 9: P6, K6, P6, K5

Row 10-12: Rep rows 8-9 then rep row 8

Rows 13-14: Rep rows 6-7

Rep rows 1-14 to desired length ending at Row 5 or 12

Bind off as follows:

(BO 5, drop a stitch) 3 times, BO 5.

Pull out the dropped stitches all the way down the scarf and block.